July 18, 2007

Time of departure:  7:30 A.M.

Temperature: 52 degrees

Elevation:  750 feet

Total Mileage:  206


“Yes ma’am, I’ll have the the whole crab,” I said, as I looked out over the Pacific Ocean.


We arrived in Port Orford, OR at 2:45 P.M., 4938 miles, and one month, after leaving Avon, North Carolina. 


We left Canyonville, OR at 7:30 A.M. and rode south on I-5 for a few
miles before turning west.  Once we left the interstate, the trail started climbing mountains.  A light drizzle fell as we followed miles of gravel roads and viewed scenes of misty, green mountains.  Ferns lined the ground at the base of the the trees.  We fully expected to see an ewok come waddling through the forest. 


Luckily, the rain lasted only a few hours, and the skies became partly cloudy.  Unfortunately, several hours into our ride, we rounded a bend to a sign declaring our road was closed ahead.  Bummer.  So, around we turned.   An hour later, we were completely lost. 


It’s quite ironic.  The only time we were lost on the trip was the last day.


After driving thirty miles out of the way
(which might have been the prettiest thirty miles of the entire day), we finally found a road to take us to the coast. 


The road lead us into the Rogue River Valley, and we followed it to the Pacific Ocean.


The coastline this far north is never what I expect.  I’m used to having a coastal plain  for many miles before reaching the ocean.


Here, though, there is no coastal plain.  Ten miles from the coast, we were still riding over twisty mountain roads.  In fact, there is nothing that would lead one to believe the largest ocean in the world is anywhere near the spot you stand.  The air doesn’t even have a salt smell until you are there. 


And then, there it is.  A mountain dips its toes into the salt water. 


We reached the coast at a town called Gold Coast.  We turned north towards Port Orford.  Its fitting that we were able to drive up the coastline a ways on the Pacific, since we did on the Atlantic. 


The coastline is surreal. 
In several places it’s actually necessary to drive around mountains as you drive up the coastline. 


Mount Humbug was especially interesting in that its elevation is high enough to cause clouds to form over its summit continuously.  Its possible to see the cloud form. 


We arrived at the Visitor Center in Port Orford and enjoyed the scenery.  The temperature was in the 50’s and the wind was blowing a bit. 


We had a wonderful lunch/dinner on the pier, including just about every type of seafood you can think of. 


After eating, we loaded up and headed out.


I’m not sure the magnitude of what we’ve done has set in yet.  I think it’s too big to wrap our minds around at this point. 


But, in summary, here are a few things we accomplished, heard, saw, impressions, etc., while on this trip.


-We traveled 4938 miles in 30 days.

-We crossed 12 states.

-We crossed three major mountain ranges.

-We rode mountains, desert, prairie, forests, and coastline.

-We dodged flood and wildfires.

-We saw mule deer, whitetail deer, black bear, pheasant, pronghorn antelope, jackrabbit, Cottontail rabbit, Inca Dove, marmot, Abert’s Squirrel, turkey, and a very lifelike plastic iguana.

-We have a remarkably culturally diverse country.  The only thing a person from Mississippi shares with a person in Nevada is a common language (sort of).

-The worst drivers are in Oregon.

-Oregon also has the most paranoid road signs.  At one point, in the middle of the desert in eastern Oregon, we passed sign a that said, “8% grade ahead----Last Chance.”  As if somebody would say to himself, “ I just drove 100 miles across the desert.  I think I’ll turn around.”

-There’s an enormous amount of empty space in this country.

-The Eastern U.S. is crowded.

-The Western U.S. isn’t.

-Our worst fall of the trip was a joint effort, and it was in a motel parking lot.

-As always, Meredith and I are very lucky people.


See y’all down the trail.


Ron and Meredith


Epilogue